applied, powder does have its purpose and place. When used properly, it acts as a veil against impurities of weather and air pollution. It worked just that way for our grandmothers, who had only powder to use as a total makeup. Remember how soft their cheeks were?

Though powder is a nice finishing touch, rouge is the most important element of this chapter. It's a beautiful step that every woman should enjoy. Wearing a lot of rouge is like having money in the bank.

.A LOOK AT THE EYES...

Eyes are the most impor- tant feature of the face. When you're communicating with someone, if you're having a conversation, if you're having a meeting, if you're having a fight, if you're flirting, if you're dancing, if you're sharing a meal with someone, you will almost always be looking into each other's eyes.

to

The person you are with will glance at all of you, of course--your hands, your clothes, your hair, your jewelry. But after glimpsing everything else, one always relates people's eyes. "Looking some- one straight in the eye" has become an expression indicating honesty. "To have one's eye on something" means to be aware, to be with it. Especially when two people talk, they look into each other's eyes. Therefore, it's very important to have pretty eye makeup. What we have to do for the eyes is de- corate them intelligently, always doing what will enhance them and beautify them as much as possible.

If the the eyes are small, we try to make make them look larger; if they're protruding, we will try to set them back. If the lashes are light and un- attractive, we can make them

dark and luscious and interesting.

•

.Eye Shadow Colors. . . .

Makeup for the eyes should

be chosen to ENHANCE and not to MATCH whatever you are wearing-a mistake that many women make. A green dress does not call for green eye shadow. In fact, I consider

green rather difficult eye

a

shadow color, because it tends to be so blatant. Even if you have GREEN eyes, I don't suggest trying to match the shadow. If you look carefully at your eyes, you will see that they are not really bright em- erald green or sage green or bot- tle green; the green eye has always a little bit of many colors. It may be chiefly green, but there is brown, there is yellow, there is gray, there is hazel in it. And if you use a really green eye shadow, you KILL whatever little green you may have in your eyes. To em- phasize the green eye, it's always better to use a contrasting color, such as plum or gray or brown.

Brown is a fabulous eye- shadow color, but somehow it's always hard for women to believe that brown eye shadow can do more for them than almost any other color. Brown eye shadow may sound drab, but it will actually make it possible for for your own eye color, whatever it is, to really show well. Brown eye shadow can be used by almost anybody. A young girl who is just starting to use makeup could easily

use

a pale doeskin or light tobacco brown or other beige coloring on her lids and look lovely and innocent.

Brown eye shadow brings out the actual color of the eyes, emphasizes the background, and gives a very beautiful look to the entire eye area. It's important to create depth, because without depth nothing really stands out. A painter knows that. For

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example, in painting an apple realistically, the artist gives the impression of its roundness by painting shades that are darker and darker as he approaches the extreme contour of the fruit. Then, where the maximum light hits the apple, there's a white spot which is called the high- light. The same principle works on our faces when we want to emphasize and de-emphasize.

Let's say we want to de- emphasize the brow bone so that the eye becomes more out- standing. In this case the use of brown eye shadow will give the effect of pushing the bone back, highlighting the eye itself. I love to create a look for the eyes that adds DEPTH rather than color. This is easily achieved by using a PALE shade of brown from the bottom of the lid up into the crease, and then a deeper shade from the crease up to the brow. Even the woman with blue eyes who is used to matching her shadow to her eye color may find she achieves a more interesting effect with the use of brown.

In fact, the only woman for whom I would not recommend use of the brown shadow would be the woman whose hair has mostly grayed. Only in her case brown would look drab. It would be much more interesting for her to use some shade of blue, which will do more to perk up the eyes. Gray, such as a beautiful chinchilla, is also very effective. Because they have so much blue in them, the entire range of lavenders are also flattering to gray- and white-haired women.

BLUE EYES are also flat- tered by the contrast of gray or plum. A very dark plum or a reddish brown, such as the copper brown or brick colors, is also very interesting with blue eyes.

BROWN EYES can use al- most any color and look fine, but you also have to take into